Articles & Blogs
A few days ago, I received an email from one of my Yahoo groups, which I would like to share and see what your thoughts are. Though the modeler in question does not model in Z, he is into model railroading. The email in its entirety is below in black font and the sender's name removed. John
Hi all,
Two years ago, I was putting in maybe 5-10 hours per kit or kit-bashed N Scale Structure. This including some air misting, detailing and even putting in floors with multiple lights.
I was heading over 20 hours per model with roof and other interior/exterior detailing, when I came upon a fellow Model Railroader who was getting out...Citing the hobby was taking too much time (and money) away from his family. I bought his tools, which includes a fine array, purchased from around the world. Over 100 micro drills. He was easily spending 50+ hours per structure. He had created his own jigs for gluing.
I began to do the same, mostly to fit and finish and aligning all parts perfectly before applying any glue. No gaps, all set at 90 degree angles...etc. Absolutely no glue showing inside or out. What took me one evening now took me days into weeks. I began to buy my nail files at the Dollar Store and every week at Hobby Lobby with a 40% off coupon.
I then began to whittle in Miller Engineering signs, and my structures began to have a layered affect with a 3 Dimensional quality...with indented balconies and entry ways. I was heading into months to complete one model and was near 100 hours per model.
I then began to plan models, taking several small bits and pieces from several kits. Mostly from second-hand glued up kits. My only visits to real LHS and Train Stores was for scratch building supplies. Perhaps buying upwards of 20-40 built (used) kits in a box for $50, then taking them all back down to their many components. Can take me upwards of 3 months to set aside the needed parts, before I even begin the model. I began to measure original buildings for a more prototype rendition. Finding that often an HO Scale foot print to a given structure was still at 80% to the footprint presented even in N scale. I began to put N Scale Doors and Windows into scratch built/kit-bashed structures which might look normal to some people as to their size on an HO Scale Layout.
Example > My fire house is uses two N Scale Fire houses to produce one model; and yet it is still about 80% Compression. My Downtown Hotel uses three Life/Like Downtown Hotels. Then i got worse. I am now going around picking up anything which I might be able to use in N Scale. Acrylic what-evers from places like Tap Plastics or from the shelves of Thrift Shops. Not just plastic or even wood, but varieties of metal.
At about this time, I began to get the notion of why an Artist never shows his work till 100% completed. And Oops! An obsessive-compulsive trait began to seep through in my behavior. I would find myself into a model at over 20 hours, then !??! decide to start completely over....Cause I knew I could do much better from the Git Go on a Second or even 7th attempt.
>> Took seven attempts to cut a thin strip of Miller Engineering material then bend it around a curve for a Theater to look like Neon Lighting..Then...actually get it to light, after it had been glued in place....And still light up the next week.
The I began to step it up again with modeled foundations. And worse...Lighting. Even lighting the basement of a model.
I began to incorporate Fiber Optic lighting for subtle affects and have used a number board for street address on an N Scale House. A year later it is still working...but I have yet to complete that model. LED's on rheostats. Woodland Scenics and a another system just hit the market but before them...I was making my own on PC boards.
Smooth transitions between joined pieces by using a variety of tools and jigs for gluing and setting up along with a lot of fine nail files and sanding paper upwards to 800 grit. Joined walls without the need for ivy or a downspot/drain. I am now incorporating indented El Wire and experimenting with back lighted names on building...
I am nearly afraid that I will be making my own Miller Engineering Signs Soon'. I am already at the point where I am creating my own flower beds from the 50% off sales at Hobby Lobby from their flower sections with a fine cutting X-acto blade. And putting them together with a tweezers like a fly fisherman. Needle tips of super glue. I went to creating scene dioramas on a module/sabot board. and incorporating more than one Miller Engineering sign into one building, along with fiber optics, LED's and El Wire.
One model has just tipped over 200 hours. Then I stopped and went Cold Turkey on my structures. Pushed myself away from my modeling desk.
Why? Needed the break for one...but also...For me to continue...into older age...I need a better work bench. More lighting, easier access, TV/Internet hook-up with plenty of Hot Tea standing by. A better more comfortable environment.
And the truth be known...I began to scare myself. Takes a lot of concentration for a 200 hour model, sort of like movie with Charleston Heston where while painting the Sisten Chapel (The Agony and the Ecstasy) he falls from the scaffold. Yes, I believe I drove myself to sickness. And my hands began to hurt and spasm.
Yes, I found my limit and it's just a bit beyond 200 hours for one model, even if stretched out over several days. There is a point in my endeavors where i must quit a model and put it to the side..Even if not yet completed.
Just wondering if anyone else has found themselves sanding on ONE model after 200 hours, where your sense comes back and you say enough? (at least for now and several days to come). What is the longest time you have spent on one model? Whether completed or not.
Micro-Trains 2 Story Barracks Build by Modelersguild.com
These Micro Trains kits are nice, real nice. A few nights build time
and you have a piece for that micro sized layout. No major surgery involved just plain fun.
To start this build we followed the instructions and sealed the card with dull coat. Sealing the card protects it from the acrylic pains. We painted the trims and foundation grey. When dry we cut out and glued these to the wall sections while still unassembled. Add the glazing to the backs of the walls at this time.
Put together the interior frame and foundation pieces, let set. While propping the walls in place glue the side walls to the frame and foundation.
To keep the foundation flat while gluing we clamped it to a straight edge. Let everything dry completely.
With all the porch and ladder pieces painted we started adding these to the end walls. This was done to make the task easier, adding these to the walls upright would be an unnecessary challenge.
Time to glue the end walls on, I tell ya these brass weights are real nice. Definitely worth much more then the scrap we pulled them from.
When all is ready we added the roof panels to the building. run a small bead of glue around the tops of the walls to place this on, make sure to wipe off access glues (the excess is unmistakable in the final product).
Cut our the printed roofing to fit the panels and glue on. Make sure to scrape the paper with a hard plastic card.
Ron Pare
Micro-Trains Farmers Co-op Build by Modelersguild.com
I am definitely getting better at Z-Scale. Another Micro-Trains kit, I am liking these more and more with each build. It is a nice two night-er, and I suggest, a nice sit down with the podcast, Model Rail Cast Show and enjoy the build.
Its not a matter of sight for me, but more of a knowing how to do it, makes all the difference. We know this kit would look great in any era or location you can come up with.
The kit is wood, with some sticky back sheets.
Building the main deck first, add the support posts and let the thinly laid glue set good. Then attach the cross bents gently to the posts.
To put the stairs together, the hardest part is getting the first bent on. I put a dab of ca on to grab it. Then followed up with some yellow glue on a toothpick. Add the steps by taking the backing off the step and sticking it to the knife blade and placing in the stringer, starting at the top step.
Next we attach the steps to the deck, again using a toothpick, Let dry.
Painting the different parts, as you can see is a breeze. Pick your color and stick tot he parts you want painted before you even remove them from the sheet. We painted the walls tan, and the trim pieces brown. Let all the components dry completely before moving on, as we want all the pieces rigid when attaching the trim pieces.
Again using the knife, stick the window frame to the blade and attach to the wall carefully.
Attaching the glazing is pretty simple, I cut a pretty big square and glued it on with yellow glue. Same with the big sliding doors, yellow glue. The doors we added in the slight open position.
Raising the walls one at a time, we first dabbed a wee bit of glue at the bottom of the wall to stick it in place. Add the second wall and seal the corner. Following the same procedure for each remaining wall.
To finish off the model we added the utilities boxes to the outside wall. We glued on the roof sections, leaving the sticky side up for the roofing paper.
Ron Pare
Micro-Trains Grain Tower Build by Modelersguild.com
Oh I can feel it, the empire is growing. Granted it is Z scale yet that diminishes nothing in the eyes of my children.
The grain tower kit is made by Micro-Trains. Each time I try out a MT kit I find myself dreaming of large landscapes and industry. Z scale the under represented king in Space Savings is here, and here to stay.
Assembly is straight forward, hence the instructions are pretty basic. The thing that strikes me as being missing is some elaboration on paint and weather.Before this thought finished passing I had the structure assembled. So whats the point, I dunno. I just state the facts folks...
In this article I am going to take the opportunity to focus on how I finished this model. I am not a self proclaimed expert, nor should I be considered to be. These steps are just my thoughts on the subject.
First as always it starts with a coat of inkahol. It gives a base that provides a random variation on the layers above. IF done before it dries. Then dip your brush in the water, we want the acrylic paint watered down. We dont want the brush floaded with water when it touches the model though. Dabb it off. Why you may ask. Well the dilluted paint will give you control over coverage and spread a larger area.
Remember we left the ink wet to soak through, let it. Follow coats that are deamed necesary will blend right in with the same method of watering the paint down. The difference is when the ink and first coat of paint dries, it is sealed to mixing. Coats of paint above will cover up the ink. A good way to fix a case of TOO much ink. Do this method and with light coats of paint to doctor it into shape. Let it dry.
The final step for this build was some treatments for the loading pipe. For this we used Sophisticated Finishes found at our local Michaels. This is iron filings and a corrosive the rusts the iron. Can't get much more realistic then the real thing.
With some coats of the MIG Nuetral wash to simulate dust and grime. We were ready to settle with good enough. In my opinion a model isn't finished till it is placed on the layout. Certain conditions will warrent different techniques so stopping here is a good idea, again this is only my opinion.
Ron Pare
Micro-Trains Logging Camp Cars Build by Modelersguild.com
Working with my brother-in-law has its challenges. It doesn't always go so well, some of you know what I mean. But when he delivers with work like this. I think we might be able to do it again.
This Logging Camp Car (Dining car and Office car, also refered to as the "clerestory") was fun and fairly easy to construct. The kit seemed to be a bit challenging at some points, mainly because of the small parts and meticulous process of assembling the tiny pieces. But with a good cutting tool, some tight bond glue and a little bit of patience, this project proved to be a great way to explore the ever-so-detailed world of the Z-scale model.
Laying out the parts I was near ready to give up. Just then Ron hands me a set of tweezers. After a few manouvers weilding the tweezers my confidence returned.
A few directions from my brother I decided to refer the printed instructions. I am glad I did, Ron was right, and I never would have followed his lead, but since the instructions I agreed, I guess I would too.
This kit contains two cars, complete with trucks and couplers. All this was not immediately appearant to me. As the build moved on I did begin to learn a few things about these pieces of rolling stock.
As I built Ron provided me with pictures of the real thing. It was amazing with a bit of this information really expanded my understanding of the project at hand. The interest that grew in me completely wrapped my mind into the whole thing.
Model railraoding is much more then just playing with toys. I realize this now and will never ever forget that. And maybe just maybe, one day I too will pursue a railroad of my own.
Ron Pare
Micro-Trains Military Barracks Build by Modelersguild.com
Building this Z-Scale kit was a real pleasure. The parts fit nicely, the materials were right, this all added up to a very enjoyable build.
Working with Z-Scale should be a challenge for my vision issues, however that is not the case. The way the kits are made makes it easy to both prepare and assemble such a small model.
The first step to building this kit is sealing the card with flat lacquer, before cutting them from the card sheet. The card is thick enough to handle without too much worry of creasing or bending.
Using a #11 blade I cut the wall sections out. Satisfied with the color of the card walls we left them unpainted (for now). For the trim and ground I used a tan and the concrete supports grey acrylic, paint the card in thin coats, card will soak in water based paints so thick coats are not advised.
To apply the white glue we used a tooth pick this allowed for a fairamount of accuracy when applying glue to a very small area.
We applied the window and door trims with white glue. Having sealed the card earlier allows time to clean up excess glue. As you can see we areready to start assembling the walls.
Using my supply of handy dandy weights I started gluing the sections together. We first attach the end wall to the side and let the glue set a bit. Once stuck I glued the floor section on and again wait to set. This system of letting the glue set allowed me to build this delicate kit in a way as to not ruin a good connection by moving on to quickly.
Using a paint pen I covered the floor of the structure black. Just because thats what I do to models that don't have interiors.
I scored the roof panel before bending it.and installed it on the model by applying glue to the walls with a toothpick. then I weight the roof down to dry with a bag of sand.
I cut the simulated roofing materials to shape and creased the ridge. Then spread glue on the roof panel and applied the roofing again with the bag of sand securing it.
Assembling the stair cases wasn't as hard as we thought it would be. Again using the glue and set technique we took the slow route at building these.The supplied steps were very easy to handle and I had little trouble here.
Ron Pare
The sawmill has a permanent place in our hobby as an industry built in the sticks. The location of these structures usually is located far from civilization and the scenes displayed in historical records show a real rag-tag operation. The oportunity to create a busy and living scene with this model is one I cannot let pass.
Micro-Trains offers kits in Z scale. The kit is comprised of laser cut micro-plywood and card material for windows, doors and frames. This card material has two-sided tape for glazings and roofing. Even the glazing for the windows is cut with a laser.
The instructions are made like an electronics manual. I have to say they are perfect and the pictures do just enough to get you through the build. As the instructions stated, we placed the two walls and supports on the base and glued them with WeldBond glue. I use Weldbond because of its Cost, Strength, and the fact that it dries clear. Some say to use Canopy Glue, but it is twice the cost and comes in a bottle near half the size. You decide.
Next step is to prepare the equipment deck. The saws and log tables are all represented in Card. When all is said and done, this looks great. I only had an issue with "How big is a loggers log in Z scale"? That issue actually held me up longer then it really should'a.
I built this model so fast, the instructions seemed to get lost under a pile of carrier sheets. I usually build the walls complete before assembling them together. This time we just got busy with it, and this ended up with walls assembled without the windows and door installed.
The amount of interest this kit struck in me had me a bit overwhelmed, so I sat down with the instructions and finally finished them.
Here are a few shots of the equipment deck installed. This is really a striking site in person.
Whoever started this technique in kit building is a patron saint. Two-sided tape on small structure kits is the component that makes this build available to a visually imapired person like myself. A pair of tweezers and a good light and I am set. 
Peel off the back of the window and place it sticky side up on the bench. Take the tweezers and break out a single glazing and place it on the window. Done deal! Repeat that for all the windows and doors and in no time everything was completed and ready to be installed.
Here is the model with the windows, doors and trim installed. I left the window sills off. One reason is I thought they looked big and reason two, I had trouble handling them. Is it absolutely neccesary ?
I thought not...
It is amazing how small this structure is considering the size of the prototype. So far I love the instructions, as they are simple and to the point, I could have used a prototype photo though. The kit parts are great, the laser cuts are clean and come apart easily. And the addition of the interior equipment really makes this $76 model worth every penny.
Again, bdecause of the two-sided tape, these roof panels are a breeze to complete. After gluing the panels to the structure, I peeled off the tape covering. The laser cut paper shingles are varied in sizes. My suggestion is to use the wide ones on the bottom and the narrow ones on the top.
I use tweezers for this proceedure, I have learned my big fingers are actually z scale battering rams. The shingles look fantastic installed and I can see already how I am going to weather them.
The ramp, or slip, is made of plywood with card braces. For such small parts I have to say this was fairly easy. The braces have two-sided tape to stick right on, using the tweezers of course. I could not wait to see it next to the structure, so I took a picture of it.
After completing the slip I really started thinking about building this Z scale layout. Its funny how a model can inspire you. This arrived Friday in the mail, and was built by Sunday Night.
Micro-Trains hit a home run with this model and I am just tickled I had a chance to build it. To be inspired by a model isn't too rare, but that don't make it any less exciting.
Stay tuned for part two.
Ron Pare
RSLaserkits Cheltenham Station Build by Modelersguild.com
If someone had told me two months ago, that there is such a thing as a Z scale Craftsman kit, I'd tell them they were crazy. Today I am that crazy fool telling you about a Z scale Craftsman kit, interested ? Good...
Z Scale kits have an appeal to them that other kits lack. The smallest of available scales Z adds that sense that if I can do this I can model anything.
These RS Laser make a very nice kit. The kits parts are small and very delicate, however with a sharp knife, some toothpicks for glue, time and patience. Yes you will break some part, but you can fix it. Rich sends extra parts it seems in all of his small kits, so don't fret. Follow along as this build grows into a micro masterpiece (well at least to me).
We started the build by painting the parts in the sheet. Not realy paint, a stain marker was used, dark brown (my freelanced road colours).The main walls were painted using antique white acrylic, go easy on soaking the wood, you don't want to warp it.
Once the paint has properly dried we can peal off the paper on the back of the trim. This reveals the two sided tape (ingenious) making the process of adding the trim very easy.Once
When added the trims realy look great. Now set the aside we are going to work on the windows.
The windows are wood and are also very delicate. If you have not changed to a sharp blade yet, nows the time. Don't say I didn't warn ya. Paint the windows (or stain).
The windows have two-sided tape on them so carefully peal of sticky protection and place the glazings on with a pair of tweezers.
To add the windows to the walls isn't all that hard really. Get a small container to put the windows in. Using a SHARP knife cut out the windows. Now that they have the glazing added they are much more stable and you can handle them easily with tweezers.
This is not a scientific method by no means so bare with me. lick your finger, touch the white glue, dab it off. In the window opening, slide your finger to one side and some will bead up there, do the same to the other side. Remember, use too much glue and you will have glue to clean off your model, so go lite. Wipe off excess glue. We added glue to an entire wall then added the windows. We added the windows through the backs of the walls.
Once we have the windows and doors sorted we move to assembling the main structure. Using our squaring device we glued from the inside corners.
Let dry then connect the two, again gluing from the inside corner. Let dry completely.
Ron Pare
Stonebridge Models Greenhouse Build by Modelersguild.com
It's funny - Sometimes in this gig, I come across a project that just amazes me. This Greenhouse from Stonebridge Designs is one of those projects. It is remarkably small. This kit I'm told is available in Z, N and HO. Gardener not included.
When opening the kit, I noticed something immediately. It was full, filled up to the brim with stuff. Instructions, a CD with a full compliment of build photos and last, but not least, the 7 or 8 pieces to the kit. Oh, its small.
As you can see this kit is as basic as it can get. I say basic in design but the end result is something! I walked around showing it off for more then a few days. The parts are Task board, glazing and ground turf.
Construction is not something that will take anymore then one nights work. This kit is easily put together, and I say this considering its size. Remember my disability is, in fact, vision.
Thee hardest part of this whole project here is photographing the little gem. This was as close as I could get with my $60 camera (yes this site is made with a $60 camera), opting to further crop and zoom the image with GIMP the free image editor.
I won't be surprised if I go out to build the other scale models as these Greenhouses are very suitable for a small and interesting scene in scale Z thru HO.
Ron Pare
Detailing Stony's LCL Cement Canisters Here is a photo of the cement canisters in their raw form. I cut the sprue lengthwise, so the sprue will now act as a holder and a stand for painting, decaling, and sealing. A word of caution, the eyelets on top are very fragile. After breaking an eyelet, I used the barrels and sprue to 'handle' them. You will notice the size of them compared to a MTL caboose.
The next photo shows one set of canisters painted and decaled in the foreground, while the other set stil needs numbers and 'writing'. On Ebay I watch for N-scale decal lots, either partial or whole, usually you can find a great deal. Sometimes finding the right HO decals will work as well. The same applies when I go to train shows, when a modeler is 'done' with their decals, I find I can find more uses for them in Z. These LCL Cement Canisters were actually decaled using left-over Burlington Northern N-scale decal sheets. I used the tiny writing for the canister messages while using 5-digit number sets to label the canister. There are a few things that stand out from the proto are the numbers on the proto canisters are Railroad Roman style font, and that there should be more 'writing' on the sides of the canisters. Other than the two items I have mentioned, I think they turned out great. The shown BN partial decal sheets I paid a few bucks for a bag load of them so decorating them was very cheap.
Before painting them, and after I seperated the halves, I gave the model a 70% Rubbing Alcohol bath and scrubbed them down with an old 'soft' toothebrush. When dry, I used my Valspar Primer #65056 Red-Oxide 'rattle can' to spray paint them. When the paint dried I then gave them a sealing coat of Rustoleum Matte Clear. And after the sealing was dried is when I decaled them.
Once the decals have been applied and dried, I then gave the canisters another coat of Rustoleum Matte Clear. There again, you still can add more 'detail' decals to authenticate the protos, if you wished too. The next photo shows a custom decorated Soo Line 50' gondola with a load of canisters, while the other set is in the open.
The canisters really did not turn out that bad, bare without any weathering agents. I plan to add spilled cement dust to a set, and I will post more photos of that process. Basically I have a set of artist chalks that I sand down to get to dust form to apply with a brush, but this might be different... I may try a different technique to apply the spilled cement dust. Below you will find a few proto photos of the LCL Cement Canisters to help compare your work.
John
Under $15 Turntable
By Jim O’Connell
May 2008
Most important is the 64oz Big Gulp cup. Next is the little plastic 'stay fresh' can top. I recommend purchasing the Roundhouse brand N Scale Gondola. Buy two @$2.99 each. You will need a dowel to make the turntable turn. You will need some MTL flex track. You will need a piece of styrene 1/4' wide and about 1/32' thick. Any hobby shop has these. You will also need some wood strips the same measurements. I use wood for the walkways because they weather better than the styrene. Some dull black paint, a brush, and something to weather the wood walkways is needed. CA glue if you are in a hurry, plastic model glue if you can wait over night. The cardboard simulates a piece of plywood for the floor of the turntable.
After the gondola arrives in the mail (most LHS', don't carry Roundhouse gondolas) cut the gondola in half and file the bottom of the pieces smooth. You will use the BOTTOM of the gondolas. The Big Gulp cup is 4 1/4" in diameter, this gives you a 110 Z scale foot turntable.
Cut the top of the Big Gulp cup off the cup. Trim it down so that the turntable, which rests on the 'stay fresh lid' is level with the top of the BG cup. I cut out the middle section of the 'stay fresh lid' it looks nicer. These lids are best from the tops of those Frosting cans found in the cake section of your local grocery store.
This photo shows all the bits used to make the turntable. Two pieces of wood, a piece of track, a piece of plastic to widen the gondola. Paint and glue.
This is the hardest part of this project. You can use a screw through the turntable into the dowel. You can glue them together. Or you can build a dowel receptacle beneath the turntable. Remember that the dowel must also be centred and be aligned beneath the layout so the dowel will not sway.
I build this. If you do it this way you also have come up with a way for the dowel not slide out onto the floor. I used a couple of screws into the dowel above the lower aligning hole beneath the layout.
When you are done this should be your result. Total assembly time about 20 minutes! If you can keep your wits about you. :-D
Under 15 dollar turntable how to was written by Jim O’Connell in May 2008. This article has been assembled in order by the following links. Simply cut and paste the following links into your web browser to follow up on any additional comments, suggestions, or to view the larger images.
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Scratch building is defined in Wikipedia as “The process of building a scale model "from scratch", ie. from raw materials, rather than building it from a commercial kit, kit bashing or buying it pre-assembled.”
Wikipedia further explains the motives as “The reasons hobbyists scratchbuild may vary. Often a desired model is unavailable in kit form in the desired scale, or entirely non-existent. Sometimes the hobbyist may be dissatisfied with the accuracy or detail of kits that are available. Other times a hobbyist will opt to scratchbuild simply for the challenge. Less frequently a hobbyist will scratchbuild out of economy, as sometimes the raw materials cost less than a packaged commercial kit.”
From here I would like to introduce Evergreen Scale Models. I am sure many Z scale modelers have a small arsenal of their products stashed away for current or future projects.
I emailed Evergreen Scale Models recently with some questions, and I would like to share their response with you.
Hello John, Thanks for your interest, and for using Evergreen styrene products. Happy to answer your questions:
What are your recommendations for proper storage of your products? Store styrene away from heat sources to prevent warping, and keep it out of sunlight. UV light slowly breaks down unpainted styrene. However, paint on the model will provide the necessary protection to prevent breakdown. Weak UV from indoor sources are not a significant problem.
What type of glue(s) or bonding material would you recommend for your sheet and shape products? Styrene is best bonded with a liquid styrene solvent, which chemically welds the styrene parts. Common brands are: Testors Liquid Cement, Tenax 7R, and Ambroid Pro-Weld. Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone (MEK), found at most hardware stores, is also suitable. Whichever solvent you use, the styrene surface must be unpainted, as solvents won't bond painted styrene. CA (Superglue) and epoxy can also be used, but they are not as strong as a solvent bond.
"The most common mistake I see is a new scratchbuilder taking on too big a project for his or her first attempt. To avoid this mistake, I'd recommend someone new to scratchbuilding start with a simple project, like a small yard office. A new scratchbuilder will make mistakes, but they'll learn by their mistakes. Once they are pleased with their results, then they can consider moving on to bigger and/or more complicated scratchbuilding projects. One of the best things a new person can do is use all resources available to learn about scratchbuilding. There are many books in the hobby press, including Evergreen's how-to book, "Styrene Modeling". Don't limit the search to just model railroad titles, look at what other hobbyist are doing. The plastic kit modelers have developed innovative ways to build models with styrene and exciting ways to finish their models. Bottom line; mistakes will happen. Use them as a learning tool and keep trying. Eventually the results of learning will be their own reward!A second common mistake is using the wrong adhesive to bond materials. Some glues will warp or distort the plastic's surface, particularly if excess glue is applied to the parts (a common mistake for beginners). Clear styrene is very susceptible to marring from using too much or the wrong adhesive. Canopy cement or Future acrylic floor finish works well for affixing clear styrene to other parts (even a small amount of white glue will work if there is no stress on the parts being joined). At some point, a new start to the project may the only cure for too many mistakes. But the new scratchbuilder will learn and eventually become proficient in their efforts."
Yes! You could win $250 for 1st Place, $100 for 2nd Place, or $75 for 3rd Place in the Walthers Magic of Model Railroading Contest. Photos chosen as publishable Honorable Mentions will win $25. Photographers will receive a copy of the reference book in which their photo(s) appears. Act quickly, May 17th 2011 is the deadline for your entries.
Ok. Now that I have your attention, please allow me to explain further in detail.
For a Christmas gift, I received my Walthers 2011 N & Z Model Railroad Reference Book. I love the catalog aspect of the N & Z scale products. I enjoy looking over the photography of other layouts and scenes. But, as I was paying more attention to the photography, I noticed a lack of Z! All of the winning photos are N, and if my counting is correct, I think there was only one Z scale photo in the whole reference book. That only Z picture is on the opening page for Z scale products.
My initial thought was “What gives? Why the lack of Z?” So, I went on and sent an email to Walthers to find out more information and to share with you about their “Magic of Model Railroading Contest”. I wish to thank Lance Burton, Senior Writer of Wm. K. Walthers, Inc. for answering some questions.
Good morning John, and thanks for your note. Please accept my apologies for the delay in responding, as I generally check this email about once a week in the “off season.” I was a bit surprised by the lack of Z scale diorama, module, and layout photos in your 2011 reference book. In fact, even the Z scale no show's in your winning photos. Please don't get me wrong that it detracts from your reference book. I am just being a tiny biased in wanting to see more Z. So do we! Despite the increasing simplicity of digital photography, the number of submissions has gone down each year, although I’m not sure why. We’re actually lucky to get one or two Z Scale entries. What I would like to do is to help spur the Z scale community for more submissions to your N&Z Model Railroad Reference Book. I would also like to create a link from Z Central Station to your Magic of Model Railroading page.That would be great — the more people aware of the information, the better — and thank you for your efforts! We should be updating the Magic portion of our page with entry information and deadlines in the near future, but we accept submissions and inquiries at any time. But, along with the link to the Magic of Model Railroading page, I would like to have an article to help guide the Z scale modelers to better photo submissions.What do you look for in a prize winning photo? The “best” photos are the ones that tell a story with great modeling. There should be some sort of implied action or drama that draws the viewer into the picture, and makes it come to life.
What are some of the "do's" in model train photography? Lighting, depth of field and focus are the big three. We prefer to see models in finished layout settings, and again, scenes that tell a story are the most fun for our readers, and for us too.
What are some of the "don'ts" in model train photography? Keep in mind that this is a family hobby, and we encourage our readers to share the Book with their kids and grandkids. We'll reject images with adult-themed jokes (such as company names) or scenes. One key point to remember is that camera's never lie. You and I can look at our models day after day and miss things, but the camera will record the smallest problem, say bent or broken details, poor assembly, wheels off the track and so on. Military and figure modelers use small mirrors to view their work from a different perspective and make flaws jump out. Cameras do the same thing. And it isn’t just small details that get overlooked. Check the layout for things that don’t belong there — we've had to reject images because tools, coffee cups and other real-world items were pretty overpowering. And lastly... Are there any guides, articles, or websites you can recommend for Z scale modelers to take better pictures? I'm not personally aware of anything dealing specifically with model railroad or miniature photography, and I don’t recall any recent magazine articles, but I would think there must be something out there. Thanks again for your interest and support of the Magic contest. If I can be of further assistance, feel free to contact me. Lance Burton Senior Writer, Wm. K. Walthers, Inc.
I would like to sincerely thank Mr. Lance Burton for his time and assistance. Z scale modelers lets get going on our photos and send them in! It is time for you to send in some pictures of your diorama, module, or layout. Here is the link to Walthers Magic of Model Railroading page. Remember May 17th, 2011 is the deadline for your entries.
And after some research, here are a few links to help you with your model railroad photography.
Bear Creek and South Jackson Note: Go to the “How To” menu tab.
Basic Model Railroad Photography
Good Luck everyone!
John Kellett
Z Central Station
Add detail to boxcars with open doors. Add some crates, boxes, tarp load, or figures to your boxcars that have open doors. There are even lumber, barrel, or bag loads you can place into an opened boxcar. You can even add a fake wood flooring to add more detail.
Left over kit pieces or scrap can be used to create gondola scrap loads. spray the pieces brown or gray and add your pigments, rust, dirt, or grime as you wish.
Every few months check and refresh your paint supplies. Whichever paints you use acrylics, enamels, or other solvent-based paint it is a good practice to check up on your paints and to give them a good shaking. Check your bottled paints, do they need to be refreshed with a dab of water or mineral spirits? What about your marker\paint pens? Then you might also want to do a spot check on your glues, putty, clay, stains, and pigments, to make sure they are in usable condition.
An easy way to enhance the look of any diesel locomotive is to blacken the grills and vents to provide more depth. You can use a black wash to bring out the grill or vent details. Weathering powders are extremely effective bringing out locomotive vent and grill details.
A quick and simple method to get rid of the plastic new freight car look is to spray a light coat of Dullcoat. This will take away the 'toy' train look of your layout. If you don't have any Testor's Dullcoat you can use any Matte Finish spray to get the same results. Just a simple spray to each side and let dry. This can be done to any plastic kits also.
Simple window shades made from masking tape. Take the plain old masking tape roll, the off-white color and cut a piece off to place on the inside of the building window. Usually covering the top half of the window is the way to go to show a half drawn window shade. But to mix it up you can cover any amount of window to show a fully drawn window shade to a partially drawn window shade. And they do make masking tape in various colors to match your need!
Paint your figures all flat black first, this way if you miss a spot or two it will look like shadowing. Then start with the lighter colors and end with the darker colors for the clothing and skin. Always use flat colored paints.
Free Z Central Station 2012 Monthly Calendar
Welcome to the 2012 Z Central Station's free PDF monthly calendar! This is a free download. Just click on the calendar image to start the download. Enjoy!
Micro-Trains Line Dormitory Camp Cars #2 Build
I enjoy building laser kits, but have never attempted to document a build. This is my first try at documenting a laser-kit build. But first, remember I am not a professional and I may deviate from the original instructions, even worse… make mistake(s).
After opening the package, I laid out the pieces. I am not building the kits as logging cars, but plan to decorate them as MOW cars. So my first step is to use my Prismacolor pens to paint the outset sides. I have French Grey 20% and Cool Grey 50% color pens, the percentages represent the darkness (opaqueness) of the color. I used the broad end of the French Grey 20% to paint a base color. I am not worried about uniform painting, this is a MOW car.
Now we get to business with assembly. The 3-piece chassis assembly is simple since they are “peel-and-stick”. I have one chassis assembled and the other with three braces and a wall glued to it. My preference is using Tacky Glue, but any wood glue will work. And to apply the glue I use a toothpick or the safety pin, sometimes it is easier to hold the safety pin. The emery board is used to clean excess from the parts and any dried glue from the toothpick/safety pin.
You can see the cars are taking shape, and you can see how the MOW cars are developing their own unique personality. The sides are glued to the chassis and this completes Page #1 instructions. This also completes assembly of the large pieces.
This next photo displays the completed instructions Page #2 and Page #3. This part is the time consuming portion of the build. Applying the “peel-and-stick” windows, door trim, and side strips took some time. Using tweezers, I tried to lightly place the piece onto the area of coverage, then used the toothpick to set the piece. One comment about the “peel-and-stick” is once it is on, it is firmly on.
Note: If I every build another logging car kit, I will assemble the window frames, windows, and door strips first before assembling the sides. It would have been easier to apply the window frames, windows, and the door strips before the wall is glued to the chassis.
Now you can see the cars really developing. Oh, and there is an extra window frame, window, and strips for a future kit bash.
Now comes the car roofing. Original instructions stated to glue the roof parts on to the frame. Knowing that “I” have a problem with lining up pre-glued pieces with “area coverage”, I took a different assembly route. I used the pre-glued roof side and applied that to the car frame, which I did not have to wait for it to dry or set. Some of the roof pieces fit in a specific manner, so be aware of that. This step also completes the instructions for Page #4.
Here you can see the kit pieces are missing from their original locations. The MOW cars are definitely looking good. Ok. To glue the roofing tarp on, I used Elmer’s “Washable School Glue”. Elmer’s produces several formulas of their white glue, and this type is thin and very manageable, it gives me extra time to align roofing pieces. The stacks are in and this completes not only Page #5 instructions but the complete instruction pamphlet.
The stacks have been painted with Polly Scale Tarnished Black. I started to use some chalks on the roofing. I believe I used a few shades of gray, black, brown, and red around the stacks. I applied my custom decals, and it looks my D&RGW MOW train project is turning out fantastic. Once the decals are dried I will weather the cars more with chalks, then seal with some Dullcoat.
These car kits have been out for some time, it has not been until recently that I picked up a few, and set some time aside to build them. I can see many different variations to building/decorating these cars. Once I get the final finish, I will post those photos.
I have always wanted to start a blog, but 'starting' it is usually the first stumbling block. This is true with a 2' by 5' canvas behind me for a layout. I have projects and a test track on it, but nothing resembling any work of 'my' dream layout. I am really hoping mid January to start some layout planning. I do know I want to include a curved trestle bridge, a pickle plant, turntable, a couple of other types of bridges, and keep the scheme during the transition period. I have some Marklin steamers and MTL F7's that will work well together. But more on that project(s) later.
I do want to share different aspects of my modeling experience, along with maybe some ZCS website aspects. I think mixing things up will be interesting. Maybe some personal details too, so you can get to know who Soccrdad30 really is. I do not want to 'plan' blog entries, so do not expect scheduled entries.
So, with that in mind. I would like to share "My Favorite Z Project" Contest entry. My project is a gas! Okay, bad pun. I am "Kitbashing" an MTL 40' standard single door boxcar, and turning it into a Navy U.S.N.X. Helium Freight Car. What is interesting, is there were 3 container helium cars and 30 container helium cars produced. And these were in the gray paint scheme. I am working on the 30 container freight car.
In the below photo you can see the car so far. I used Plastruct channeled strip for the side supports, while cutting out the middle of the car but leaving the roofwalk. I have the containers glued together and painted in gray. I used 3/32” Plastruct tubing for the containers. And you can see some of the tools I used, including my cheap 10.00 chopper that I bought at a train show (bonus!). Slugger got me hooked on Plastruct Plastic Weld – Love it! And for Christmas 2010, I received a couple of Railway Prototype Cyclopedia’s. What is interesting is in this booklet has an article about brake wheels, but look at the Ajax April 1943 Brake Wheel ad showing a U.S.N.X. helium car. The side supports are configured differently from the research images and from commercial RTR cars. Oh well, I will stay with what I started.
Okay, here is a closer view of my contest entry. I just need to paint, create my decals, then apply the decals before inserting the containers. I know some thoughts are going on about the finer details. But, on my next one, I would like to get it more proto. This one I am happy to finish, and to be learning new modeling skills. My next photos will be of the finished helium car, and will be entered into the contest.
Micro-Trains Line Logging Camp Cars #3 Build
I built the Micro-Trains Line Dormitory Camp Cars Kit #2, now I am going to document the build for the camp cars kit #3. The cars are both about 32’ long but from coupler-to-coupler they are about 40’ long. Again, remember I am not a professional and I may deviate from the original instructions, or even worse… make mistake(s).
After opening the package, I laid out the pieces to check them over. I am not building the kits as logging cars, they are going to be added to my train of D&RGW MOW cars. So my first step is to use my Prismacolor pens to paint the outset sides. I used French Grey 20% broad end to color the pieces. I am not worried about uniform painting, these will be MOW cars.
Now, the kit assembly. The 3-piece chassis assembly is very simple since they are “peel-and-stick”. I have both chassis assembled, but this time I attached the wheels and trucks. I found it easier to attach the trucks at this stage since the chassis is flat and I can use the small screwdriver to apply pressure to the bolster pin. In my build of MTL’s Dormitory Camp Cars, I attached the trucks last which took some delicacy so I did not damage the assembled car. And my preference in using Tacky Glue, but any wood glue will work. And to apply the glue I use a toothpick or the safety pin, sometimes it is easier to hold the safety pin.
The MOW cars are really developing their own unique personality. If you notice the door frames, window frames, clerestory’s, and windows, are installed BEFORE attaching them to the chassis. In my previous logging car build, it was cumbersome to me to attach the window frames and windows after the sides were previously attached to the chassis. The progress of this page completes Page #1 and Page #3 instructions. This also partially completes Page #2 instructions.
The next photo displays the completed Page #2 instructions. The trim strips have been applied covering the center/end support tabs. Use tweezers to lightly place the piece onto the area of coverage, then used a toothpick to set the piece.
The cars are really developing. There is an extra window frame, window, and strips for a future use. I keep everything that is left over.
I attached the roof upside down (wood up). I plan to use Elmer’s Washable White glue to attach the roof paper. Some roof pieces fit in a specific manner, so be aware of that. This photo completes the instructions for Page #4. I took the Prismacolor pen to “color in” any bare spots around the windows and trim pieces.
The roof tarp is attached and the stacks are set. This photo shows the completed instructions for Page #4 and Page #5. The last item(s) to attach are the couplers. These car kits are very nice. Normally one could spend a few nights assembling the cars. I am sure there are some speed demons out there that could easily build the cars in a day.
The stacks have been painted with Polly Scale Tarnished Black. I started to use some chalks on the roofing. I used a few shades of gray, black, brown, and some reddish brown around the stacks. I applied my custom D&RGW MOW decals. Now I have two more unique MOW cars for my train project. I plan to weather the cars more with chalks, then seal with Testor’s Dullcoat.
You may have a link on your desktop, a bookmark or favorite for ZCS, maybe you just key in zcentralstation.com into your browsers URL window. Maybe, you key in ‘zcentral’ into your favorite search engine, either way or any way you get to www.zcentralstation.com. There are many aspects of running a website, but what I want to share with you are the ‘Trues”, the actual data from 2010. The old saying goes “Hind sight is 20/20”, and that is true.
How about I share more with you? Here is actual 2011 data up to February 11th 2011. In January of 2011 we had 4,188 unique visitors with about a 3 to 1 return visit ratio, utilizing 19 gigabyte of internet bandwidth from our web server the visiting home computers. At this point we have 1,639 unique visitors in February 2011 with the same 3 to 1 return visit ratio. January 2011 was a better month than January 2010, and February is looking to better than last year too.
Here is the ZCS 2010 chart. You can see by the end of the year, we were really bringing in the visitors. That is when I worked on a banner trade program with Trainini and Z Friends Europe. Thank you Stonebridge Models for coming on board to help support ZCS. The only part that is untrue is October results. The first of October 2010 we migrated to our new hosting company Site 5, but we did not have our site stats fully operational, so we ‘lost’ 10 days of ZCS visitor data. As far as April 2010, I am not sure what the problem was, I would have to do some research. Just think ZCS pushed out 182 gigabytes of data in 2010, all pictures I presume.
Ok, ZCS had that many visitors and hits, but where did they come from? How about a breakdown by country, that also displays the total pages, hits and bandwidth usage. Well, this next graph tells me that I need to get Gerd and Alex to work harder. (sorry guyz, lol)
Here is a breakdown of what our visitors used to connect to ZCS. Please remember for operating systems, Windows could mean any version from Windows 3.11 to Windows 7, along with the many flavors of Linux. The same goes for Internet Browsers. Internet Explorer 2.0 to the new Internet Explorer 9.0 could have been used to access ZCS. And there are many versions of Firefox, Safari, Opera, and Google Chrome. So if I really wanted a breakdown by browsers or operating systems I can access that report. What is interesting is someone is out there is using their Wii to access ZCS.
This next screen breaks down the search engine that is used to connect to ZCS. The reported numbers, 61.3% of our visitor hits use a direct link, bookmark, favorite, or link in email. Almost 38% of our hits come from other web sites containing a link to ZCS. Then the final 1% hits comes from search engines such as Google, Yahoo and the rest.
The last two screens displays the keywords and key phrases that are typed in the Google, Yahoo, or other search engine box to get to ZCS.
Well, I have presented to you few of the reports that I can get from my hosting company. We can look at all of the data in any way shape or form, dissect it, and create exotic formulas. But, what it really comes down to… I want to see ZCS continue to grow and mature with you. It does not matter how you get to ZCS. It matters that you find ZCS useful in some way to help with your Z scale train modeling.
ZCS has many avenues to interact with other modelers. We have a 24 x 7 chat service (all are welcome). Eventz calendar to let others know of show, demonstration, or unique occasions. Forums to ask or answer questions, no matter how silly you think they may be. A huge gallery to display your work or to search for modeling examples. There are many more features that you are welcome to use.
John Kellett
