Medvend Panel Mount Controllers In Stock

Loren,
I think you're fibbing a bit: you have most of it right in your posts. First, you really do want to use that DPDT switch (center-off type). The switch on the controller is on the "IN" line from the power source so an "off" controller connected to an "on" controller will be reverse powered by the "on" controller...potential for blue smoke.
For a start here's some thoughts I have for a manual operation. You need three isolated track sections (left to right): (1)Power A, (2)Power A or B, (3)Power B. Connect section (2) to the DPDT switch. To run from A to B, set the switch to A and run the train onto section (2) then set the switch to B.
From a practical standpoint on the ZBT modules (and I'll be relying on your ZBT experiences here): you need to build a couple of module adaptors that isolation the track power between the DB25 connectors. Also want to run wires between the left and right sides out to the switch (4 lines).
For the track setup, isolate the the bridge track between modules and connect the common terminals from the switch to the track. Don't know how practical this is, but it's the fastest, easiest way I can think of to test things out without messing with the modules.
Hope this makes sense. Questions?

I also have ideas for making the operation automatic and to provide for polarity protection if there is interest.

Mark

We had 3 blocks in the modules in Cincinnati in 2005. Plus Rob Albritton's Gotthard Lines was a separate block. We simply installed isolating rail joiners on one of the modules for each block and verified that the polarity was the same all the way around the layout. We had an operator and a spotter for each block. We would start a train in the first block. It would stop at the second block until the operator of the second block powered on his block and it would go to the third block where it would stop until picked up by the operator of that block. We didn't connect the harnesses between blocks which kept each block isolated. There were individual power supplies for each block.

Thom

Ok Mark and Thom......I'm now in the thinking mode. This in itself could cause me to smoke a bit and perhaps blow a circuit breaker or two. Who knows, I may glow in the dark by the time this thing is finished.

Thanks for the info guys, really, I am pondering the whole thing.

Rob,

I ordered mine last night.

John

I got my control installed into my humidor today. Here's how it looks

Wow the controller looks great!! I love how you installed it. I can't wait to see this piece finished!

Rob

Thanks, Rob. I used the hole that was left after removing the hygrometer. My main concern is how to get the wiring down to the layout without having trouble with it since it will be moving every time I open the lid.

Is the layout going to be inside the humidor?

Yes, it will be completely self-contained. There will be a r/c battery under the layout inside the humidor.

rvn2001 wrote: Yes, it will be completely self-contained. There will be a r/c battery under the layout inside the humidor.

What is meant by "r/c battery"?

R/C battery stands for radio control. They come in many sizes and voltage values. You can see many examples at hobby shops. Used in any sort of vehicle, tank, ship, airplane, etc that needs a rechargeable power source.

The r/c battery I'm using is a 6-cell rechargable NiMH battery pack normally used for radio(remote) control cars and boats. It puts out a maximum 7.2 volts dc at 3000mAh. A fully charged battery pack can run our Z scale trains continuously for several days at a train show. I've been playing and experimenting with the one I bought Saturday all weekend and it still has plenty of charge remaining.

Thom,
I characterized the Medvend unit the beginning of the year and have some thoughts on the battery. Powering the unit with a standard Alkaline battery, I got about 8 hrs of useful battery life at 50% throttle driving an AZL GP-30 or GP-38. I got about 4 hrs from a 9V form-factor NiMH battery (8.4 V,170mAhr). The AZL units typically draw 30-35mA with a 4 to 8 car load, so unless you're going to run several locos, I figure 90-100 hrs of run time per charge, which may be a bit more than you need.
Also, the pulsed DC out of the throttle is at the input voltage less about a half volt. You'll have a little better low speed operation with a higher battery voltage.
Of course, all this may be irrelevant in your application.
Mark

Thanks Mark,

Since this is going into a small humidor all I'll be able to run is a Marklin 0-6-0 or the Zthek or SeaRails units. It will only be pulling 1 or 2 cars and I won't be doing switching so it just has to run the train. Ellen's late husband came up with this set-up for her tool box layout and it's worked very well for her. The idea is to have a completely self-contained layout that doesn't require a lot of work to keep running.

Thanks again,
Thom

Loren, Take that DCC system out of the box. Plug the transformer wires in to the Power connector. Connnect 2 wires to the track. Plug the Cab (that thing you hold in your hand [er, better reword that] ) using the coily cord. DONE !

Select Loco (3-4 digit loco number, assuming you programmed the decoder to that), Increase to make it go faster. Decrease to make it go slower.

Got another loco? Recall. Select Loco (3-4 digit loco number), Increase to make it go faster. Decrease to make it go slower.

Slow the other one down? Recall, Decrease (once the loco is programmed into the Select Loco, it stays there (even after power off)!!!

Now why do you want to buy more electronics, drill holes, connect more wires (and I've seen yours . Mount the NCE UTP panel where you would mount ONE of the Snail/Medvend control.

It will take *anyone* 10 minutes max to put that Digitrax decoder in the MTL, less for the AZL. I'll even talk to you on the phone

Guess I've been told good and proper. Is this anything like 'go stand in the corner' but in this case it is a 'call to arms'. In other words, get off my butt and do it.......now.

I guess the only decision now is to figure out which module to install the receiver in. Probably best to put it in Castle Crags since that module is usually the center of action.

SJ-BAZ-man wrote: Loren,

It will take *anyone* 10 minutes max to put that Digitrax decoder in the MTL, less for the AZL. I'll even talk to you on the phone

See, now Jeff is being generous in his appraisal of my abilities. Jeff, did I ever tell you about my learning disability curve? :o)

SJ-BAZ-man wrote: Loren, Take that DCC system out of the box. Plug the transformer wires in to the Power connector. Connnect 2 wires to the track. Plug the Cab (that thing you hold in your hand [er, better reword that] ) using the coily cord. DONE !

Select Loco (3-4 digit loco number, assuming you programmed the decoder to that), Increase to make it go faster. Decrease to make it go slower.

Got another loco? Recall. Select Loco (3-4 digit loco number), Increase to make it go faster. Decrease to make it go slower.

Slow the other one down? Recall, Decrease (once the loco is programmed into the Select Loco, it stays there (even after power off)!!!

Now why do you want to buy more electronics, drill holes, connect more wires (and I've seen yours . Mount the NCE UTP panel where you would mount ONE of the Snail/Medvend control.

It will take *anyone* 10 minutes max to put that Digitrax decoder in the MTL, less for the AZL. I'll even talk to you on the phone

You could do it that way....but once you've got the block wiring done it doesn't cost you another penny no matter how many locos you have or buy later.

I fly RC -- 100% Electric: have 1/4 Cub, .50 sized warbirds, and micro stuff we fly in gyms and the HHH dome.

I'd go with a different pack -- a 2S LiPo of a decent size could make the humidor layout truly self contained -- it could fit inside the box.

I power my repackaged Snails via a 9V Walwart (switcher type; not transformer); and, have also it with 2S LiPo & 3S A123s.

I used a "ribbon" cable to wire the blocks/tracks (etc.) of my coffee table layout: