Bridges

Since a lot of people got those MTL bridges..(or other bridges..) perhaps we should show what we got.
I modified my MTL bridge by slapping 2 MTL 110 mm pieces on each side. I used these as handles like those thingies you stick on hot ear of corn.
I painted and weathered the 3 pieces, then i got a 220 mm piece of Marklin track and pulled the rails off. I filed the tips on one side, notched them about an inch back and bent them at a slight angle.
I then soldered the tips on both sides, and bent the rails until they sat in middle piece, the rail up against the rail joiners inside the bridge. This gives you the spacing for the flanges to roll though.
I took out the guard rail I made, painted it rust and glued it in its place. I centered it by putting the points about where the pin holes are on the 2 pieces of track I have on both ends.
Before I glued guardrail in place I cut a thin piece of model plywood wide enough to fit inside the guardrails, scored it to look like boards and stained it with ink/alcohol. I glued this inside the guardrails.
I found a nice Burlington route herald, printed, sealed and glued these on

picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SfPKK6tP7fP0vqGYsC226A?feat=directlink[/img]
picasaweb.google.com/kaiserwillieii/Bridge#5524204430283128354

WOW KELLY,

Those look fantastic.
I need to paint the rails for my layout.
Several members suggested that I just paint the side from where people view it.
I was thinking to just paint both sides of the rails for a more complete job.
On switches, I would just paint the running rails and not the portion that moves.
What color do you use, rust, brown or do you mix up your own combination?

Regards,

Robert

I think I painted the acrylics too fast ..before the primer dried..it kinda flakes off ..I used the German Revel acrylic rust. This was kind of a fast and sloppy job, but thanks. Guard rail would be rusty all over, as no wheels roll on it. For those wanting to have a rerailer..there you go..I think it is much better than those big goofy plastic railroad crossings in other scales.
I have to make abutments..Yes there are some very verry nice ones out there, but money has just gotten tight so, I will get out that balsa I got real cheap, throw on some sealer and paint it with this concrete paint I have.
Where have you been hiding Robert??

My computer crashed in July, bummer. I was trying to have it fixsed with no success. So, I drove to the NEX in San Diego and purchased a new one and flat pannel monitor. I reloaded my files and email, but the email came back in a .dbx format and I don't know what to do. So i have lost my address book and am trying to reconstruct a new one. If you still have my address @ verizon.net sent me a note.

Robert

Robert

Check the import facility in your e-mail program as it should be able to import that database file (.dbx).

cheerz Garth

Since I am: 1) between jobs again; and 2)in a hurry, I have decided to make my own bridge abutments. I had a ton of balsa that I got cheap from a toy/hobby store, that went half out of business.
Now somewhere I read that you should NEVER use balsa..Why? It's been the model makers fried all these years. If it is good enough for those great model railroaders of the past, it is good enough for this mediocre one in the present.
I should not have been in too much of a hurry and should have sealed it, but..I like the texture. I used Faller Strassenfarbe Beton..which is street paint cement, which glops on thick and has a kind of gunk in it like sand. I smeared it on with a cotton swab, and kind of went back and forth horizontally to give it texture and a look of pored concrete. I am hoping it will look better with weathering powders and stains to bring out the texture.
I made one for each side, and it probably cost me all of 50 cents to make.
picasaweb.google.com/kaiserwillieii/Downloads#5524559626431219714

Well done Kelley!!!

John