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DCC....HOW WELL IS YOURS RUNNING???
- liltoot
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i bought an nce unit, just a starter unit so i could get used to it, not knowing much about dcc,,i didn t add it to my z layout, but my oo scale layout. i wasn t sure how dcc would work on z scale,plus theres alot of engines you caNT get the decoder in. im starting to really enjoy it now, tho i had a few track problems to get worked out first,, burned up one 2-6-0 motor. now im getting confident enough to try dcc on z scale,, i m still trying to get those decoders in still,,i think that s the big pain, the decoders. WHAT ABOUT YOU??? CANADA MIKE
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- shamoo737
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- garthah
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i d like to know from you guys out there, what system of dcc your using,,,,any problems,,, and what you like best.
i bought an nce unit, just a starter unit so i could get used to it, not knowing much about dcc,,i didn t add it to my z layout, but my oo scale layout. i wasn t sure how dcc would work on z scale,plus theres alot of engines you caNT get the decoder in. im starting to really enjoy it now, tho i had a few track problems to get worked out first,, burned up one 2-6-0 motor. now im getting confident enough to try dcc on z scale,, i m still trying to get those decoders in still,,i think that s the big pain, the decoders. WHAT ABOUT YOU??? CANADA MIKE
Hi Mike
I am using the NCE power cab with my Z and the decoders are TCS Z2 and MZA4. I like these decoders as they work on DC and DCC. I also use the speed table to limit the power to the motor so we do not exceed the 8vdc point from the decoder as the input from the Power Cab is 12.5VAC to the rails.
You did not tell use what engines you want to DCC, I found it pretty easy to install the decoders in my engines everything except the MTL F unit. I even added custom lighting to some of them.
cheerz
Garth
cheerz Garth
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- SJ-BAZ-man
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www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/Z_Scale/Z_Search/search.html
This will give you a good idea of what's needed. You can also use Digitrax DZ123M0 (zero on the end) for the MTL GP9 and 35 but NOT the SD40. Pretty much a drop in but you need to file two small notches (see instructions and Trainboard for more pictures).
John sums it up: being able to run any loco and even MU'd or play with lighting is the best. Nothing like having a spaghetti layout (track everywhere) and trying to turn DC blocks on and off or switch multiple power packs !!! My slogan: "any direction, any speed, anywhere"
To control the speed, in MU's, you really don't need speed tables, unless you have a loco that has a VERY non-linear speed characteristic. Just use CV5 (max) to adjust your speed demon to match your sloth. Then, program CV6 (mid) to half of CV5.
Notes: Changing CV5 (max) or using the speed table does NOT limit the max voltage ! DCC 'switches' essentially the track voltage on and off at 1000's of times a second. Each time it is on, it is the track voltage minus a little for the semiconductor components in the loco's DCC decodor. If you want less track voltage either use the a lower voltage supply on the starter sets, diode reducers (see MRC, Atlas or www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm) or adjust it with advanced sets like NCE's Power Pro or newer SB3a (the 'a' version !). HOWEVER, this beat-to-death "don't exceed the maz 9v setting or you will melt your locos motor thru the earth" is just manufacturing warnings. REALITY and FACT will show you there are 10's of thousands of locos out there with applied voltage WAY over these limits withj no problems !!!! Your worst nightmare with DCC is not overvoltage to the motor. It's the constant power to the track. ANY metal wheel derailment in a turnout or crossing is a short of respectable power 30-100+ watts, depending on DCC system. THAT will heat up a wheel or the wheel wipers between wheels on a loco truck. So ALWAYS watch your trains !!
Take your new DCC product out of the box and connect the two wires to the track WITHOUT worry.
Anyone who wants to call me to discuss (or debate) 408 361 1230 in Cali.
Jeff
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